Dolomites, Italy
Chasing First Light on the Dolomites
Three cold mornings, one impossible ridgeline, and the case for waking up before the mountains do. A field guide to catching alpenglow in the Italian Alps.
The journal
Every story, in order
6 dispatches and counting — from mountain passes to quiet coastlines.
Amalfi Coast, Italy
The Slow Coast: A Week Along the Amalfi Shore
No itinerary, one ferry pass, and a rule against rushing. What happens when you give a famous coastline the time it actually asks for.
North Cascades, USA
Into the Pine: Backcountry Nights in the Cascades
A three-day loop through old-growth forest, one lightweight kit list, and everything I got wrong about wild camping the first time.
Nærøyfjord, Norway
Blue Hour at the Fjords
A photo essay from the Norwegian coast, where the light never quite commits to leaving and the water holds the sky like a second sky.
Algarve, Portugal
Sand Between Chapters: A Cove in the Algarve
How a wrong turn down a dirt track led to the emptiest beach in southern Portugal, and why we're only half-telling you where it is.
Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
Emerald Water, Thin Air: Trekking to an Alpine Lake
A day hike that punches well above its distance. On acclimatisation, the strange colour of glacial lakes, and knowing when to turn around.